Arturo Chiang

For Arturo Chiang, fashion design is a love affair of sorts. “I love this. I fell in love the first minute,” Chiang tells WSAToday.com. The hands-on designer got his big break working under the direction of Christian Lacroix at storied couture house Jean Patou. “I love the craftsmanship and old techniques. We’d spend three weeks just stitching a skirt,” says Chiang. Inevitably, though, he yearned for something different. “I love haute couture, but it’s something so removed from reality. It’s not what it used to be when real customers wore couture.” A freelance stint styling shows for Vince Camuto led to Chiang’s 8-year post as the senior footwear designer for Nine West and the rest, as they say, is history. Now with his own eponymous brand under The Camuto Group, Chiang is glad he stepped out of couture and into women’s footwear. “I think it’s much more challenging to create something beautiful for everyday,” he said. Below is an extended, Web-only version of our exclusive interview, which first appeared in the November issue of WSAToday.

What trends are you seeing for spring ’08?

Color finally. They’re accepting a lot more color now. It was so good. White is something they’re also responding to. There’s never that hospital white, though. I love color, especially bright colors for first delivery and pastels for second. Mesh is another important trend

Playa

Photos - Luciana Pampaleone

Tell us about your spring ’08 collection.

We’re going to have a lot of enriched shoes with ornamentation. I always do it very subtle, like with studs in the same shade. The consumer we have is very aware of fashion; she wants something adapted to her lifestyle. We have injected soles, a cork wedge heel, a lacquered or metallic finish. Laser cut [leather] wrapped around cork heel. Edges of contrasting colors. Real snakeskin.

How do you build relationships with buyers and retailers?

Personally, I go to the show [The Collections at WSA]. I like to show the collection myself. I’m always here. Many times, I do training for managers of stores. It’s very important. They want wearable fashion.

Cuba cork flat sandal

What have buyers been telling you lately?

One of the things buyers were telling us was that we have to reinvent the ballerina. I’ve done a flat but added an inside wedge with gel so it becomes elongated and sophisticated. I did a lot of weaves, too.

What makes your shoes unique?

I always try to offer something different. I wear casuals like luxe. We try to do a casual shoe that’s different in the market. I do color blocks, but I use natural colors to make it more wearable. We always like that more sophisticated look for our customer. I love those casuals.

Half of the people who are buyers are in my shoes. We’re offering fashion, sophisticated fashion, and, I hate to say comfort, but it’s that, too. It’s high fashion and style with all the comfort features you can imagine. We’ll do a mid-heel and little wedges. Nothing we do is too high. The highest heel we have is 80 mm. If I do a platform it will be very subtle.

Castle

How do you reach out to customers?

I try to constantly go to stores. I love to do public appearances with stores. I love to hear what their comments are. I think it’s more to my benefit. I‘m planning two in New York and at the new Bloomie’s in Chevy Chase, Md. Sometimes you do things that the customer doesn’t want, and it helps to hear from them and improve.

What are the biggest challenges of being a designer?

The toughest of all challenges is to adapt and move forward to the needs of your customer. It’s difficult to move on. There was a point when we needed to move forward, especially when it’s a big business, it’s a risk to change your look. You have to believe in it and hope for the best.

A red pump from the spring '08 collection

Photo - Emily Heller

Whose designs and style do you admire?

All my big designers. Balenciaga and Charles James are always able to design. You could wear their dresses today. It was so of the time and so fashionable. Nowadays I love Pierre Hardy. He’s probably the most talented shoe designer. [As for celebrities] with stylists, I don’t even know who has their own style or not anymore. It was her taste before. It’s not their own doing [now].

What inspires your designs?

So many places. You look on the street and see where trends are going there. Fashion books. Traveling. I never stop traveling to the Orient. I love India. In the Western world, there’s nothing that new in fashion.

Who is your customer?

We have a customer that we know very well. We know what she likes. It’s a very rich look. She’s a professional woman, working woman. She has a sophistication to her that’s why she knows what’s going on in fashion. She’s modern. She doesn’t want to suffer for fashion.

How has it been to work for The Camuto Group?

I’ve worked with Vince all my life. I’ve been with him for a very long time. When he started his company I went with him. He’s so passionate. Vince is very involved. We as designers do what we believe to do. He’s always pushing your creativity. It’s the same thing with quality. We’re constantly developing new materials and finishes, like metallic printed suede.

What’s the next big thing?

For me the next big success is going to be that very different approach to casuals. More than anything it’s the street and your customers. You want to have the same continuity and stylish feeling when you go to work. Women are exercising more.

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