Since Devi Kroell’s launch in 2004, her bags, followed by her shoes in 2005, have become synonymous with a singular material: exotic skins.

Devi Kroell

Such a reputation suits Kroell fittingly; her design aesthetic, like these rare materials, put an emphasis on exclusivity. Now, however, she’s expanded her line to encompass even more luxury elements, from crystal studded wood to eel skin. She also did a special collection for Target last summer, and in February showed for the first time at The Collections at WSA. In this extended, exclusive interview previously published in the June issue of WSAToday, she dishes with us on the death of the “it” bag and how women’s heels will soon be on the rise.

Cartabe

What made you decide to begin designing handbags?
I wanted to create something new and different. When I started my collection, most other luxury handbags had designer logos and were very structured. I felt I wanted to create a luxury handbag that was not drenched in logos, very chic and sophisticated, and less structured, more slouchy at the same time. I wanted a stand out bag that was even more exclusive-looking than the rest!

What is it like to design both shoes and handbags?
I launched my first shoe collection in fall ’05. I started with classic designs, like my classic flat boots—the ones Sienna Miller wears everywhere—along with classic pumps and flats. I wanted to keep my original designs to classic styles with exotic skins, just like with my handbags. My spring ’08 shoe collection is the most diverse to date, with alligator Capri thongs and Great Jones python platforms. For fall ’08, the shoes are the most spectacular and fabulous I have made with a range of materials, heights and styles. Now my collections are officially half handbags, half shoes.

Recently, there’s been a lot of talk about how the “it” bag phenomenon is on its way out. What does that mean for your business and your designs?
Fashion can be a very predictable cycle: huge “it” bags were in, so the inevitable counter trend was hit clutches. For my line, our bags are classic and they are things that are exclusive and not the thing your neighbor will have, too. I find women will continue to be attracted to Devi Kroell bags—not everyone can have one. My variety of clutches is the best substitute to the “it” bag craze; they make up about half ofmy handbag collection. This trend started on Hollywood’s red carpets and has moved into mainstream. Now you see women carrying fantastic clutches, even to a casual dinner to spice up their outfit. Take my crystal wooden clutches, for example; they are like small pieces of art that people can wear.

A shoe drawing by the designer

What was your experience like putting together a collection for Target? Would you consider a similar collaboration in the future?
My collaboration with Target was very exciting. It was about catering my designs to a mass-market level. The fantastic part was that anyone could own one! No plans for more collaborations, but who knows.

Tell us about your fall 2008 collection.
For my fall ’08 collection, designs have gone to more structured bags, as opposed to my slouchy styles. I wanted to take it somewhere different than what all the other designers seem to be doing. As for the shoes, you will see a lot more detail.

What were some major inspirations?
My inspirations started with Vienna—its museums, coffee houses and art—and took a stint to Moscow (a slight one!) and moved back to Rome. We also worked with a lot of new skins such as eel, stingray, basic leathers and other exotics. Van Cleef & Arpels created minaudières in the 1930s that have inspired my wooden clutches to be reminiscent of jewelry.

What are some key trends?
Right now, for handbags, the trends are medium-sized bags and oversized clutches—things you can wear to excite your outfits. For shoes, women are magically drawn to higher heels.

Roll

What are some of the most important ways to reach your customers?
Reaching customers comes by maintaining the exclusivity of our products and brand—creating something that not everyone can obtain.

Describe the Devi Kroell customer.
Super chic, super rich and super smart.

What makes your line unique?
Exclusivity and intriguing combinations.

How do you strengthen relationships with buyers and retailers?
Our shows, updates on our collections with our press kits, look books and personal touches. Staying personal is key.

What have been some of your biggest challenges?
The biggest challenge is to keep creating the best new ideas to make each season different so that people don’t become bored.

What’s the next big thing?
Higher and higher heels and more structured bags.

If you could change something about the industry what would it be?
Less quick fix trends and some new flares.

  More Expert Opinion Articles