Chloé emphasizes ankles with sleek patent leather boots.

Runway photos - Getty Images

Next fall, fashion may continue some of spring’s most popular trends, but the season will turn over a few new leaves of its own. “For spring ’08 there’s a concentration on femininity, and designers have become very flirty,” Maria Carvalho, merchandise manager of footwear for The Doneger Group tells WSAToday.com. We’re going to see that going forward into fall.” Of course, every designer has a unique twist on these core elements, so The Doneger Group has defined five themes for the season.

Downtown Diva

Apparel: “The first theme is called Downtown Diva. It’s very hip, very aware and on trend,” fashion director Roseanne Morrison says. “She’s ahead of the curve in terms of fashion. Layering will be key with motorcycle jackets and denim, and we’ll see really skinny legs.”

Hermés combines the dramatic boots and dark palette of Downtown Diva with the menswear styling of Gender Bender.

Footwear: “The boot segment is going to be very important in this trend,” Carvalho notes. “Although over-the-knee boots were pinpointed this season, they didn’t take off in a big way. Next season will provide more exciting silhouettes in boots. Here we’re going to take neutrals and combine them with deep tones. On cap-toe pumps, the toe will be a different color from the rest of the shoe; for example a gray shoe with an accented color toe cap. Toes will be more rounded than pointy going forward, in almond and asymmetric shapes. I think suedes and leathers combined will be important as well.”

Gender Bender

Apparel: “Within the Gender Bender theme is the whole masculine story,” Morrison says. “There will be an accent on the waist and a lot of suiting worn with a crisp white shirt with a tie and vest paired with wide leg pants with a 1940s influence. It’s sexy because it fits nicely, close to the body.”

Footwear: “With wide-leg pants we’ll see the elongating of the leg with a heeled ankle boot. The lace-up oxford is going to be important in this trend, whether it’s flat, on a platform or a pump,” Carvalho says. Again, core neutrals including black and gray will be significant as well as shades of brown, especially espresso; however, this theme will also have berry-colored accents. “The whole natural story is very important.”

Rubik’s Cube

Apparel: “This theme is about color and form,” Morrison says. Geometric shapes such as square bodies, architectural forms, straight up and down, and A-line cuts that fit close to the body will provide a convenient canvas for blocks of primary colors. “Fine-gauge knitwear, cotton and merino wools will pop in bright colors,” she adds. Legs will look lovely in leggings, pencil pants and colored tights.

Balenciaga puts a twist on the Rubik's Cube category with a neutral-hued, color-blocked knee-length jacket and bold turquoise leggings.

Footwear: “This is where footwear is going to play an important part,” says Carvalho. “We’ve seen some introduction of this now, but for fall this theme will be a big, big story. It won’t be a bold block of color, but more contemporary art that’s not so rigid, not so defined.

“Legs will be in color and bright belts will make clothing pop.” Colored patent leather on peep-toe pumps and flats will burst with shades of bright yellow, orange, Kelly green, cobalt and fuchsia pink. “Another accent that’s important is wide straps such as a pump with a wide ankle strap or flat with a band going across it in a fun color,” she notes.

Viking Vixen

Apparel: “It’s really about shine, about hardware. I think collections like Alexander McQueen and Dice Kayek are indicative of this trend,” says Morrison. Inspired by Norse mythology and the Dark Ages, this theme will be all about wrapping, tying, draping and ribbing. Key materials will include leather, wild fur, shearling, and sherpa with quilting and whip stitch details.

Alexander McQueen's flowing skirt paired with a feathered metallic bodice showcases the Viking Vixen look.

Footwear: “We’re going to see a lot of gladiator influence going into fall. Heels are going to be chunkier, and there will be embellishments on shoes, like chain mail, studding and nail heads,” Morrison says. “We’ve seen them coming down the runway in boots with lots of strapping that makes it appear bondage-like,” adds Carvalho. Metallics will be important in addition to browns and black. Cuffed boots lined with macro stones will be significant as well.

1920s

Lanvin puts a luscious spin on strappy Mary Janes with juicy red patent leather.

Apparel: Austrian painter Gustav Klimt’s famous Kiss painting inspired this theme, which focuses on circular shapes in softened silhouettes and Russian Constructivist geometric patterns. “There will be a very rounded feeling in coats and skirts with a feminine softness to it. Sheer blouses will be double and triple layered for modesty,” Morrison says.

Sparkling fringe on John Galliano's ankle-length dress is reminiscent of a 1920s flapper.

Footwear: “Mary Janes will play a large role in this trend as well as knee-high boots with a chunkier heel, making it very 1920s retro,” Carvalho says. “Hats made of felt or with feathers will sit tightly on the head.”

Maria Carvalho

Maria Carvalho is the merchandise manager of footwear for The Doneger Group, a leading source of global market trends and merchandising strategies to the retail and fashion industries. Before rejoining the company this year, she served as the trade show director for Sole Commerce and has worked as a footwear and accessories consultant to high-end boutiques nationwde.

Roseanne Morrison

Roseanne Morrison is fashion director of The Doneger Group, overseeing the fashion intelligence within the organization. In addition to being responsible for all of the company’s publications, she is editor in chief of Style Insight. Before rejoining the group last year, she worked for The Tobē Report and has held positions with some of the nation’s leading retailers. For the full version of this article, check out the December 2007 issue of WSAToday.

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