Gil Carvalho

While some could argue fast fashion is currently king, and the art of fashion has been deposed, Portuguese-born designer Gil Carvalho–a former architectural student who studied shoe design at the London College of Fashion–today marries both worlds in his namesake footwear (and now handbag) brand. “I adore art and architecture and find it extremely inspirational and reference it constantly. Studying it helped me to analyze objects in a different way,” he says. Basing his business in London, a city he describes as “inspiring and the center of excellence” in fashion, Carvalho has built a reputation for creating edgy and glamorous sculpture for the foot. In this extended version of an interview previously printed in the May issue of WSAToday, Carvalho dishes about his ready-to-wear and conceptual shoe collections.

Star, in gold

How do you describe your fall ’08 collection?
It’s about geometric and sculptural detailing inspired by the Cubist artist Georges Braque. The use of textured and different weight leathers results in many rich layers, adding to the sumptuous and luxurious feel. I’ve also continued to expand on the success of the handbag collection launched in spring ’08. It’s the perfect companion for the shoes.

What were your design inspirations for fall '08?
Continuing to explore the beauty and timeless quality of the stiletto, the latest collection is designed with the party girl in mind, whose need to stand out from the crowd naturally led her to discover Gil Carvalho.

What materials and colors did you work with?
For my latest collection, I have enjoyed using bright acid colors and everything from high shine patent all the way through to matte. It’s a collection full of opposites, but which reflects the brighter than usual autumn/winter trends. Also, hand finished textured leather adds interest, depth and a superbly luxurious feel.

One of the designer's conceptual shoe designs

What trends are hot right now, in terms of women’s accessories?
This season sees the return of the square toe. Meanwhile, the heel is much slimmer in contrast to the chunky platforms of recent collections.

You have a ready-to-wear and a “conceptual” collection. What are the differences?
I enjoy experimenting with different mediums to create something truly exciting and more theatrical. In so doing, I’m pushing the boundaries of design, incorporating new and unexpected materials, and experimenting with form to create something truly remarkable. I enjoy the more experimental forms of my conceptual collection.

Describe the Gil Carvalho woman for us.
I see her as a confident woman with an experimental and eclectic taste. Always conscientious of her image, she makes fashion her victim. She wears Gil Carvalho all the time, anytime, and she’s absolutely fabulous!

What have you found are some of the most important ways to reach your customers?
Without a doubt the most important is the press. With globalization it is now possible to reach markets which would have been very hard to break into before, and the press influences people’s choices more so than it ever did before.

Another shoe from Carvalho's fall '08 collection

What makes the Gil Carvalho brand different from other women’s brands?
I have never been very interested in following trends; by their very nature they are set by others, and I am keen to stick to my own interpretation of fashion. I believe this is reflected in my work. Also I detest the finicky and overly elaborate. True perfection lies in simplicity of form. Three words that sum up my design ethic are: sexy, sleek and sharp.

What’s next in women’s accessories? What trends do you see on the horizon?
There's a fusion of styles; classic masculine shoes with sexy heels, classic combined with sports features, rough with soft, glossy with matte.

What other designers do you admire?
Hedi Slimane. I never leave home without something from his Dior line.
Roger Vivier has always been a source of inspiration, and finally Nicolas Ghesquiere, because of his work at Balenciaga.

How do you strengthen your relationships with buyers and retailers?
As a company, we try to be as flexible as possible and accommodate the needs of our buyers. Fashion with all its deadlines is a very demanding industry to be involved in, especially as we seem to be going through an economic slowdown and things have become even more demanding.

What are you hearing from them as of late?
That trading conditions are more difficult, so their search for products that stand out from the crowd is more important than ever.

What’s next for your brand?
Last season saw the introduction of a selection of handbags, and due to the success of these I have designed a larger more comprehensive selection, from oversized clutches to something more substantial for use during the day. I have been approached to collaborate on several new lines, but as yet these are still being negotiated.

If you could change something about the footwear/accessories industry, what would it be?
The continual shortening of deadlines. It seems to me that each season gets shorter and shorter and with it the pressure to meet them intensifies.

Why did you choose to set up shop in London?
London has always been one of the important fashion capitals. Obviously there is always ebb and flow of popularity, but for me it has always been a center of excellence. London offers opportunities only available in a few places, hence I chose to study here and ultimately start my business in London.

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