Not only has she got legs, but she knows how to dress them. In the past year, legwear retail sales totaled $6.3 billion, a 3.4-percent increase over the previous year, according to The NPD Group. Although sheer hosiery sales have been declining for the past several years, the category experienced a recent 7.5-percent jump.

Sally F. Kay

“The traditional waist-high garment has not been as healthy due to changes in workplace dress, but the fact is, [legwear] companies are redesigning and transforming to make new products for what the consumer is looking for,” Sally F. Kay, president and CEO of The Hosiery Association tells WSAToday.com. The sock category has been healthy for the past 10 years and this year is no exception, as sales rose 1.4 percent. “What we’ve seen is there’s more focus on the leg because of ready-to-wear styles. Attention to leggings and footless tights has continued to grow.”

Spicing Up Spring

Nanette Lepore pairs plum-colored tights with a flouncy mini dress.

If variety truly is the spice of life, then legwear will be sizzling come spring. “Fashion and ready-to-wear impact what types of legwear products are being styled and what colors are popular.” For spring ’08, fashion will present a mixture of the ’70s and ’80s with a retro look, and fabrics will convey a technical innovative finish—both of which will carry into legwear. “What we’re seeing is there’s a variety of looks that are out there. Color will still be popular, but I think that some of the shimmer and bling that we’ll see going forward is not so much shine, but more subdued, burnished effects. I see a lot of openwork like lace, crochet and basket weave. There are certain degrees of that which lend themselves to an airy feeling with femininity.”

Over-the-knee legwear, knee socks and even anklets will step out. “We’re seeing these layered with a shorter skirt, depending on the age of the consumer.” In the workplace, there will be a return to the suit with trouser socks. “We’re seeing shorts again, even as part of the suit ensemble. Dresses will be popular for spring and the bubble dress, depending on where it hits you on the leg, is a great opportunity for legwear with tights or leggings.”

Styles overall will be minimal as a reaction to the recent “busyness” trends. “Accessorizing is being done subtly and simply,” says Kay.

Although footwear will be available at both ends of the height spectrum, legwear will be worn with all of it. “The shoes we’re seeing are either extremely high, like peep-toes and platforms, or flats. We’re seeing hosiery worn with both styles of shoes.”

Functional Fashion

SmartWool socks can be worn with sandals, too.

These days legwear can do more than make you look good on the outside; it can provide internal benefits as well. “So many products now are functional. Some have a graduated compression to enhance circulation that’s available in trouser socks and full waist hosiery products. Encapsulated products can activate beads to release moisture into the skin, while caffeine-infused hosiery helps reduce the appearance of cellulite.”

Even better, some socks have features that prevent the foot from sliding, minimizing the potential for abrasions. Others contain antimicrobial fibers to reduce foot odor. “These products make you look good and truly are good for you.”

Growing Markets

Flesh-colored leggings from Pegahan Varian blend together seamessly with this futuristic tunic ensemble.

While most hosiery is worn by women 22 to 35 years old who are just stepping into the career scene, several markets are warming up to legwear. “The industry is doing a better job of understanding what the consumer is looking for and connecting with consumer groups. The ’tween/teen market of girls grew up in an era where they didn’t have to wear pantyhose, so they’re excited about patterned hosiery and creating layered looks that add individual style. It’s a fast-growing market.

“The plus-size woman has also become a more popular demographic for brands to pursue. In the past she was limited in the styles of ready-to-wear and legwear options. Now she’s become more vocal about her needs [by saying]: ‘I may be larger size, but it’s still important that I have fashionable options.’ The average woman in the United States is a size 14; therefore our industry is doing more studies and making more options available to the consumer based on sizes.”

Men Get Comfortable

The Paper Pusher, a new spring '08 sock style by SmartWool

As today’s man becomes more style conscious, his legwear wardrobe will definitely follow suit. “Many men are thankfully becoming a little more interesting with their socks. I encourage them to experiment with socks the same way they would with a tie or handkerchief.”

And with footwear designers continuing to implement comfort features in his shoes, such attributes are slipping into his socks as well. “Socks now have arch support, anti-blistering fibers and antimicrobials, so not only is he stylish, but the sock has performance attributes to it. You name the sport, there’s a sock out there that can be tailored to it. Not only can they enhance performance, but the value that goes into the manufacturing of products and the cost of the product means the consumer should ultimately get what he pays for.”

Kids Are Up To Code

Hosiery by Chinese Laundry

Children’s legwear may not be as on-trend as mom and dad’s, but make no mistake that this group still wants to make a statement. “Today’s kids are a lot more opinionated about what they enjoy wearing. What we’re seeing in legwear is that it’s becoming a factor in uniforms. Dress codes are becoming far more stringent, so we’re seeing dress socks and tights becoming key components of the school uniform. Athletic socks, too, are a key component of sports uniforms.”

Kids will also use legwear to promote their favorite fill-in-the-blank favorite of the week, whether it's cartoon characters, animals or modes of transportation. “Kids’ novelty socks will always be popular from infant to toddler in a variety of lengths. Socks help them create their own sense of style.”

Keep It Covered

Models at Anna Sui happily paired bright-colored socks with heels.

For fall/winter ’08/’09, the trend of covering up will continue. “Women are trying constantly to reinvent a look and they’re getting more proficient in layering. You can layer so many ways with hosiery. Leg warmers are very popular, but are more prevalent in teens or 20-somethings.”

Other popular styles will include “cylinder heels, lace up shoes and shooties that give a ‘governance type look’ along with thigh-highs trimmed in fur. Pleated skirts will be big. We’re seeing the body suit again and the turtleneck is coming back.”

But for those who are reliving a fad, Kay advises either shying away from the familiar fashion or, at the very least, paying close attention in how it’s reinterpreted. “If you’ve lived through a big fad once, you may not want to wear it again. You may want to be careful on how you wear it, because it may not be the same way you wore it the first time.”

Sally F. Kay is the president and CEO of The Hosiery Association. She is the author of The Hosiery Association's Centennial: Keep In Step With The Industry For A Hundred Years and has written articles for numerous trade publications around the world. This article first appeared in the November 2007 issue of WSAToday.

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