Francesco Aimi shows off a new style from A. Testoni.

Men Say Ciao To Wow

At MICAM, Category Pops With Color, Texture

MILAN (Oct. 9, 2007)—At last month’s MICAM trade show, men’s shoes grabbed their share of the spotlight with vibrant colors, exotic skins and the shimmer of metallics. But don’t look for this explosion of splash at your local department store – it seems American men just aren’t ready for all that Italy has to offer.

A cobbler makes shoes for Castellano.

“In the U.S., the first color choice is always black. Dark black, light black, and black-black, for men and for women,” Loredana Polo, general manager of Stonefly, said with a smile. That isn’t all Americans are seeking, however. “In the U.S., comfort is more important, and our goal is to apply comfort to Italian style,” she added. “For this market, it’s all about the insole.”

Loafers pack a punch in spring colors.

The American demand for comfort is clearly being heard across the Atlantic, as most Italian brands mentioned that flexible soles and comfort insoles are making an appearance in even the most fashion-forward men’s shoes. At Aldo Brue, a collection of terrycloth-lined driving mocs are coming out specifically for the American market. “We’re calling them walking clouds, because they’re very comfortable and have a very different sole than most driving shoes,” spokesperson Barbara Caloni said. “We put a lot of emphasis on the comfort features for this shoe.”

Metallics and exotic skins shine at MICAM.

Comfort was a consideration for footwear at every price point – and men aren’t the only ones getting a softer step. “We like to combine comfort and style in our men’s dress shoes,” said Sebastian Marzaro, president of luxury brand Casadei. “Our leathers soles are flexible and few other brands can do this. We have unbelievable technicians. And what we’re doing in men’s shoes, we’re also applying to women’s shoes. It requires tremendous imagination to make a high heel with this degree of comfort.”

Gianluigi Mauri shows off his self-titled shoe line.

Though there were plenty of comfortable black men’s dress shoes on display at the show, American men will have a wide selection of fashionable-yet-subtle styles from which to choose. Perforated leathers, burnished shades of red and ochre, and creative new twists on the traditional wing tip were just a few of the highlights at A. Testoni. “The woven trend is very fresh right now,” added sales and marketing manager Francesco Aimi. The brand, which featured everything from a $250 elastic gore driving moc to a $5,000 crocodile loafer, appealed to several price points with its Black Label, White Label and Amadeo Testoni collections. “But all of our product has flexible soles and premium leather,” Aimi pointed out.

The wing tip takes a colorful turn at A. Testoni.

Still, it was hard to ignore the many brightly colored, wildly patterned and downright sparkly shoes on display. But who are they for? “The Middle Eastern and Russian markets have exploded,” Marzaro explained. The Middle East, Nigeria and South Africa may be clamoring for colorful sandals, but Russian consumers are interested in “more refined silhouettes with less embellishment,” Marzaro said.

Multi-colored, hand painted sandals stand out.

Not that American men aren’t open to some color – if only in their casual footwear. “We make sneakers for the U.S. market. That hip-hop feel is what they want right now,” explained Gianluigi Mauri, owner of Mauri Shoes while gesturing to a selection of brightly colored, low-profile sneakers. “In the American market, you must have the complete package — fashion and quality together. Otherwise, you can’t sell there.”

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