Darin Hager

It’s one thing to design shoes, and quite another to sell, market and distribute them yourself. Former Puma and Sperry Top-Sider designer Darin Hager realized this, and more, when he decided to launch his own label, Heyday Footwear, this past February. “Being in the business for over 10 years has definitely helped to prepare me for this big stage of running a brand on my own,” Hager told WSAToday.com. “A lot of it, though, I wasn’t prepared for.” We recently asked Hager what it’s like to launch his own brand—and how much retailers like Avenue in Los Angeles, Journal Standard in Japan and Soula in Brooklyn, New York are having an impact. Below is an extended, Web-only version of our interview.

How important are your relationships with buyers and retailers?

It’s been very important. Just maintaining a friendly relationship with buyers or vendors or whoever it is will eventually lead to something. For example, I met Tarek [Hassan, owner of The Tannery in Boston] three to four years ago when I was working at Sperry. He’s been a big supporter of me. A lot of brands want to be [in the Tannery], and because of my personal connection with him I’m in there. There are a lot of buyers who didn’t pick up Heyday the first season, but I still talk to them and take it as an opportunity for them to see the evolution of the brand and the company and want to do business with us in future.

When you first started the line, did you have specific retailers and stores in mind?

Rumspring Low, new from the spring '08 collection

Yes and no. Starting out with the first season I wanted to hit more of the sneakerhead type shops. Now, however, there’s been an evolution of the product design. It’s becoming more Japanese and European in its appearance—a little less street. While I still want to be in some of those stores, like Undefeated and Union, I also want to try and do Barneys, Bloomingdales and Nordstrom. The product is staring to move in that direction in a big way. 

Your brand mixes so many genres—sneaker head culture and work boot sensibility to name a few. Is it hard to find retailers and buyers who get that concept and know how to sell it?

Not so much. I think that once people have seen the product they generally get the direction that I’m coming from. One issue, though, is that a lot of retailers will say they want fresh product but when it actually comes time to put up or shut up, they want what’s sold the previous season and they’re not quite as willing to take a chance on a new concept or brand is it appears that they were. It just comes down to being patient on our end, waiting for retail to catch up on what we’re doing.

Where should buyers search for new, up-and-coming brands?

Trend blogs, like Josh Spear and Hypebeast are great. They definitely tend to show a lot of upcoming designers. It also depends on what trade shows you go to. We’re exhibiting at United in August. It’s one place retailers can go to and see other start-up brands.

Did you have an ultimate game plan? Has it changed since you’ve launched?

Everyday Mid

I had an idea, but part of being a successful entrepreneur is being able to adapt to changes in the market place. I received some feedback from retailers in Europe who told me that, because jeans were getting really skinny, people wanted a lower profile and my silhouette was too chunky to go with that style. For season two, I changed the last and went for a slightly lower profile and slightly pointed toe. I learned that if you just bury your head in the sand, you’re not going to be in business for very long. You need some brand integrity to be successful yet you still need to see what’s going on in the market.

What can we expect to see for spring ’08?

For spring, I’ve developed six new styles, including a wedge work boot, a new boat shoe and new vulcanized rubber styles. I was trying to find a connection with work boots. I looked at the black and white striped prison uniforms of the old days, and railroad crossing signal stripes for a printed canvas. I also looked at desert boots with tanned suede and canvas as another off-shoot of that work boot heritage. I’ve got a white and navy colorway that is almost nautical. 

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